<imgsrc="https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/8518150/179464273-7927420c-b60a-48ab-9eb9-d69b563c0a0b.png"align="center"alt="Flipper Zero FAQ"title="Flipper Zero FAQ">
- *It is written with information from the latest dev firmware, you may have to wait for a firmware (pre)release before some of the questions/answers become relevant.*
> It's an [Awesome List](https://github.com/sindresorhus/awesome/blob/main/awesome.md) that I ([djsime1](https://dj.je)) created shortly after receiving Lurat, my lovely dolphin sidekick.
> Perferably, open a [Pull Request](https://docs.github.com/en/pull-requests/collaborating-with-pull-requests/proposing-changes-to-your-work-with-pull-requests/creating-a-pull-request) with your changes, or use one of the methods in the next question to contact me.
> Open a [new discussion](https://github.com/djsime1/awesome-flipperzero/discussions/new) on this repo, Message me on Discord ([`@DJ#9822`](https://discord.gg/9rduBhctJ6)), Telegram ([`djsime1`](https://t.me/djsime1)), or email me ().
> If there's multiple small pull requests open at the same time, I'll often merge them together as a single update. Due to the way GitHub works, I'm unable to mark them as merged when I do this. To compensate, I include the contributors as co-authors on the commit, and mention the Pull Request ID's as part of the update message.
### This is really cool! Is there a way I can donate to you?
> I really appreciate the kind words, however I'm not accepting personal monetary donations.
> If you're really insistent, I'll accept a Discord Nitro gift ([`@DJ#9822`](https://discord.gg/9rduBhctJ6)) or Steam Game ([`/id/djsime1`](https://steamcommunity.com/id/djsime1/))!
> Besides that, why not support a local charity/organization instead? My personal recommendation is the [Electronic Frontier Foundation](https://supporters.eff.org/donate).
> Make sure there's a working MicroSD Card in the device first by following the steps above.
> Once you download the dump, you can use qFlipper or the Flipper mobile app to transfer them. If you're transfering a large file or many at once, you can also eject the SD Card from Flipper and insert it in your computer for faster transfers.
> - In qFlipper: Plug your device in, go to the file browser tab, navigate into the SD Card, and drop files in their corresponding folders (The folder names are similar to the file extensions).
> - For mobile apps: Make sure you're connected via Bluetooth, save the file to the app's archive, and synchronize it back to the device.
> - For plugging the SD Card into your PC, drop files in their corresponding folders (The folder names are similar to the file extensions).
> Assuming the application has been packaged as a `.fap` file, installing it is as easy as placing it inside the `apps` directory on your Flipper's SD card. You can launch the app from the `Applications` app. If the app hasn't been compiled into a `.fap`, either *kindly* ask the author or compile it yourself.
> First, ask yourself if you really need to. Sure, it might be fun to break out of Sub-GHz transmission restrictions, but how often are you actually going to do that? Is it really worth breaking the law?
> After you've ignored the previous sentences, make sure there's a working MicroSD Card in your Flipper and head over to the repository of your perferred firmware. Look for releases and find the `.dfu` file or updater package (typically a `.tar` or `.zip` file, it always contains a file named `update.fuf`).
> - If you have an updater package, extract and transfer the folder (not the original archive file) to the `update` folder on the SD Card (create the folder if it doesn't already exist). Once transferred, go to the desktop/idle screen of the Flipper, press down to access the file browser, then left to view all folders. From there, open the `update` folder (typically at the bottom of the list) and find the folder you just transferred. Lastly, select the file named `update` and choose "Run in app" to install the firmware.
### How do I write/compile my own applications/plugins/firmware/assets?
<blockquote>
<em>(The following is a summary of the <ahref="https://github.com/flipperdevices/flipperzero-firmware/blob/dev/documentation/fbt.md">official FBT docs</a>.)</em><br>
Since the introduction of <ahref="https://github.com/flipperdevices/flipperzero-firmware/blob/dev/documentation/fbt.md">Flipper Build Tool (FBT)</a>, this has become very easy! You should have a basic understanding of working on a command line before proceeding. The only prerequisite install is <ahref="https://git-scm.com/downloads">Git</a>. You should also have an IDE installed, <ahref="https://code.visualstudio.com/">VSCode</a> is recommended since the <ahref="https://github.com/flipperdevices/flipperzero-firmware">firmware repo</a> has <ahref="https://github.com/flipperdevices/flipperzero-firmware/blob/dev/documentation/fbt.md#vscode-integration">config files</a> for it.
<details>
<summary>Expand me for the rest of the steps.</summary>
> Probably not. While the firmware and schematics are mostly public, actually sourcing the components is extremely difficult. Multiple core pieces, such as the screen, were specifically produced to be used in Flipper manufacturing.
> These are all hardware mods, generally inaccessible to the average user. Look up/ask around on how to do them if you're really interested, [r/flipperzero](https://old.reddit.com/r/flipperzero/) is a good place to start.
> Technically speaking, there's going to be a **very minor** hardware revision in the near future. Functionally speaking, it will be identical to every other Flipper Zero already sold. The revision only replaces a few internal components and doesn't offer any new features compared to existing devices, so don't bother waiting to buy it.
> Besides that, there are concepts for a [Flipper One](https://flipperzero.one/one), but without a timeline for release.
> - To reboot the device: hold the BACK and LEFT buttons, then release simultaneously. If that didn't work, *disconnect the USB cable* and hold BACK for 30 seconds. This will preform a normal reboot.
> - To enter DFU/Recovery mode: Hold BACK and LEFT, then release BACK while still holding LEFT after a few seconds. When the screen lights up, you can release LEFT.
> - To exit DFU/Recovery mode: Follow steps for a normal reboot under the first bullet point.
>
> If nothing works or the device is completely bricked, first make sure it's charged by plugging it in for 15-30 minutes. As a final resort, if you can't get it to turn on after charging, *unplug the USB cable* and hold OK plus BACK for 30 seconds. **There will be no indication**, but the device is now in recovery mode. Plug it in to a PC and use qFlipper to recover the firmware.
> Read the official docs for [Control](https://docs.flipperzero.one/basics/control), [Reboot](https://docs.flipperzero.one/basics/reboot), and [Firmware recovery](https://docs.flipperzero.one/basics/firmware-update/firmware-recovery).
To access the Serial CLI, click one of the following based on your platform.
<details>
<summary>Desktop web browser*</summary>
<em>*Chromium browsers only, such as: Google Chrome, Microsoft Edge, Opera/Opera GX, Brave, and Vivaldi.</em>
<ul>
<li>Connect your Flipper via USB.</li>
<li>Ensure qFlipper and any other serial terminals are closed.</li>
<li>Open <ahref="https://my.flipp.dev/">my.flipp.dev</a> in one of the aforementioned browsers.</li>
<li>Click <kbd>CONNECT</kbd> and select "USB Serial Device" from the list.</li>
<li>Wait until you can see your device details on screen.</li>
<li>Select the 💻 CLI item from the left sidebar.</li>
<li><strong>Done!</strong></li>
</ul>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Windows</summary>
<ul>
<li>Install <ahref="https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html">PuTTY</a> if it isn't already.</li>
<li>Connect your Flipper via USB.</li>
<li>Open qFlipper and look for the COM port next to the Flipper's name. <em>(Should say COM followed by a number, like COM1)</em></li>
<li>Take note of the COM port number.</li>
<li><strong>CLOSE qFlipper</strong>, otherwise the next steps won't work.</li>
<li>Open PuTTY and ensure you're on the Session screen.</li>
<li>Select "Serial" under connection type.</li>
<li>Set serial line to the COM port. <em>(Just COM followed by the number, like COM1)</em></li>
<li>Set speed to <code>115200</code></li>
<li><em>Optional: Save the session settings for easy connection later.</em></li>
<li>Finally, click <kbd>Open</kbd> to enter the CLI.</li>
<li><strong>Done!</strong></li>
<li>If you get an "Access Denied" error, make sure qFlipper isn't running!</li>
</ul>
</details>
<details>
<summary>MacOS/Linux</summary>
<em>Note: I'm a filthy Windows user without any way to verify this procedure. Let me know if it's wrong!</em>
<ul>
<li>Install <ahref="https://www.gnu.org/software/screen/">GNU Screen</a> if it isn't already.</li>
<li>Connect your Flipper via USB.</li>
<li>Open qFlipper and look for the device path next to the Flipper's name. <em>(Starts with /dev/tty)</em></li>
<li><em>Alternatively: Run <code>ls /dev/tty.*</code> in a terminal.</em></li>
<li>Take note of the full device path.</li>
<li><strong>CLOSE qFlipper</strong>, otherwise the next steps won't work.</li>
<li>Open a terminal.</li>
<li>Run <code>screen PATH 115200</code>, replacing PATH with the device path from earlier.</li>
<li><strong>Done!</strong></li>
</ul>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Android</summary>
<ul>
<li>Install <ahref="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.kai_morich.serial_usb_terminal">Serial USB Terminal</a> if it isn't already.</li>
<li>Open the app and go to the Connections screen in the hamburger menu <em>(3 bars icon)</em></li>
<li>Connect your Flipper via USB.</li>
<li>Click the refresh icon if it doesn't automatically show up.</li>
<li>Allow Serial USB Terminal to access Flipper if prompted.</li>
<li>If it doesn't automatically connect, click the connect icon in the upper right. <em>(2 plugs icon)</em></li>
<li><strong>Done!</strong></li>
<li><em>Note: To exit log mode, you'll have to disconnect and reconnect using the icon.</em></li>
</ul>
</details>
<details>
<summary>iPhone</summary>
Unfortunately, iOS is incapable of accessing a serial terminal over USB; try one of the other methods.
</details>
On the Flipper, open the settings, go to System, and set Log Level to Debug. <em>(You can keep Debug set to off unless someone asks you to turn it on)</em>
Once you have the CLI open, type <code>log</code> and press enter to start watching logs. Press <code>Ctrl-C</code> or <code>Cmd-C</code> to exit log mode.
> You'll need to edit the `setting_user` and `setting_frequency_analyzer_user` to change the frequencies available for selection in the app. The files are located in `subghz/assets` on the SD card.
> Note that this won't magically unlock those frequencies, you're still bound by the device's limitations.
> Yes and no. You can't just attach any antenna directly via the GPIO pins, however you could use a separate processor on a protoboard and control it from Flipper, assuming you write your own code to do that.
> For example, you could write your own code on a NRF24 and accompanying Flipper app to control it over GPIO.
> To determine the protocol (NFC, RFID, or iClass/PicoPass) you'll need to attempt reading in each corresponding app. If nothing works, check the tag/card for any markings or indications. As a last resort, take a picture of the card/fob and the reader and ask in the [Flipper Discord server](https://flipperzero.one/discord).
### I was told a Mifare Ultralight/NTAG tag has password-protected sectors. What does that mean?
> Either the read was interrupted, or the tag is actually password protected.
> First, try reading the tag again but make sure it stays on the back of the device until the info screen pops up.
> If you're still seeing the warning, Flipper can unlock Amiibo and some Xaomi tags, but be warned that there's a risk of **bricking** your tag if you use the wrong password too many times.
> Mifare classics are split up into sectors, these sectors are protected by two keys. To read a Mifare Classic, Flipper uses a dictionary attack, which takes a big list currently comprised of 1241 common keys, and checks them individually against each sector on the card. If you know the keys, they can be manually added to the User Dictionary under the "Extra Actions" menu.
> The data on Mifare Classic cards is split up into sectors, and each sector is protected by two keys.
> If no sectors were read, then Flipper's dictionary attack has failed to find any valid keys.
> If you know the keys, you can manually input them under the "Extra Actions" menu of the NFC app. Otherwise, try attacking the reader with mfkey32v2 as described a few questions down.
> Even if not all sectors were read, you should inspect the dump with the mobile app to see if the missing data is necessary or not. In a few rare cases, semi-read cards can be emulated in place of the original without issue.
> If you still need the rest of the keys, read the next question.
### How to I get Mifare Classic keys from a reader with [mfkey32v2](https://github.com/equipter/mfkey32v2)?
> (WIP, Note to self: https://regex101.com/r/iXmE2N/2)
> Flipper emulates Mifare Classics according to official specification docs (at 13.56 mhz), however certain card readers operate at slightly different frequencies (such as 13.50 mhz). Since Flipper is unable to detect the frequency (like a real card does), it also can't correct for these minor errors.
> As a result, data transmission doesn't always occur when the reader expects it, and thus emulation is imperfect.
> There are a few theoretical ways to fix this with software, but the best option would require hardware modification.
> You'll need to use a NFC-enabled smartphone with an app that can write tags. One of the easiest to use apps is called NFC Tools, available for both [Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wakdev.wdnfc) and [iOS](https://apps.apple.com/us/app/nfc-tools/id1252962749). Due to Mifare Classic emulation quirks, you can only edit the data of saved NTAG and Mifare Ultralight tags. Create an empty NTAG216 with the "Add Manually" action in the NFC app if you don't have one already. Save that tag, then open it from the list. Once you start emulating the tag, you can use the NFC Tools smartphone app to write information on to the emulated tag. This is saved to a .shd file with the same name as the emulated tag. If you need a quick way to generate a tag containing a URL, you can use [Flipper Maker's NFC Creator tool](https://flippermaker.github.io/) online.
> EMV Credit/Debit cards are mostly encrypted. The information Flipper reads is the unencrypted portion of the card. This alone is not enough to emulate and complete a transaction. It is impossible to read the encrypted parts.
> This was scrapped due to timing issues, more details in [this GitHub issue](https://github.com/flipperdevices/flipperzero-firmware/issues/1173#issuecomment-1127728562).
> While it isn't possible to add new items under the universal menu, there exist plenty of repositories containing many dumps of IR remotes. The most popular is [Flipper-IRDB](https://github.com/logickworkshop/Flipper-IRDB).
> (Note: When downloading, it's *highly recommended* to unmount the SD Card from your Flipper and directly plug it in to your computer.) If you only need a remote for one device, you can use [Flipper Maker's IR Device tool](https://flippermaker.github.io/) to create and transfer it on the go.
> The stock universal tv remote database mostly contains power codes, and very few of everything else. This file (Located at `infrared/assets/tv.ir` on the SD Card) be manually replaced with one containing extra codes for all buttons. To do so, download [this file](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/UberGuidoZ/Flipper/main/Infrared/tv.ir) and use qFlipper to transfer it into the path from the previous sentence.
> All three are different formats of infrared databases. They are not natively compatible with Flipper, but repositories exist that hold converted and compatible versions, such as [Flipper-IRDB](https://github.com/logickworkshop/Flipper-IRDB).
